Dana Wynne and Raul Cordova's Wedding: Mexico City Images

Wednesday, April 2, 2008

Mexico City Images

Streets Scenes

Angel de Independencia

Boats of Xochimilco

Typical Street Vendor

VW Bug Taxis (and traffic)

View of Polanco from roof deck of Camino Real

Zocolo

El Centro with Zocalo

View from the plane at night

El Angel de Independencia

Bellas Artes Building

Castilo Chapultepec

Crazy Mountain

Taco Stand in Tlalpan

Hotel Condesa DF

View photos from our past visits to el D.F.

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Mexico City Guide:

Mexico City, the second largest city in the world, is a cosmopolitan metropolis with everything you would find in New York, Los Angeles or Europe. It is often referred to simply as el D.F. by it's residents (pronounced "de-efay"), short for Distrito Federal. Depending on how long you are planning to stay, there is a lot to see and do. Below is a selection of recommendations and tips from Raul and me to ensure you enjoy a city that we love for all that it has to offer. Click here for a MAP of the city.

Neighborhoods to Visit

Mexico City is made up of over 350 Colonias or small neighborhoods (most often abbreviated by Col. in an address). Each has it's own unique character and we recommend you visit as many as possible to get the most out of your experience.

Polanco / Chapultepec : Located just in front of Chapultepec Park, this area is one of the most dynamic areas in the city. In this neighborhood you'll be able to find the most sophisticated hotels, restaurants, contemporary art galleries, high end shopping (Avenida Masaryk) and nightlife. This is where Hotel Camino Real is located, as well as most locations for late night activities (such as drinks at Area Bar at Hotel Habita). Chapultepec Park the "Central Park" of Mexico is located here, as well as the Museo de Anthropologia and the Museo Tamayo. You could easily stay here the whole time and find plenty to do, but if you want to venture out, we recommend the areas below.

Coyoacan : Cobblestone streets lined with stately mansions, beautiful plazas, sidewalk cafes and restaurants. Coyoacan played host to Leon Trotsky, Diego Rivera, Frida Kahlo and many more. If you are tired of the hustle of the city, this neighborhood is a calmer retreat. Kahlo's Casa Azul is located here as is Casa Leon Trotsky. Today it is still known as the bohemian area of the city much like New York's West Village.

Condesa / Roma : A large neighborhood with art deco architecture, large parks, art galleries, hipster boutiques, cafes and many popular bars and nightclubs. Condesa was the first to be rehabilitated into the new hot neighborhood for fashionable young professionals. The designer hotel Condesa DF is also located here, which features a fantastic open air restaurant. Roma, the rougher of the two, is fast becoming the next hotspot with new art galleries, restaurants and bars moving to the area.

El Centro / Alameda : The roots of Mexico's capital lie here, with such attrattions as the Zocalo, Catedral Metropolitana, the Bellas Artes building and gorgeous traditional architecture. Once known for being dirty and dangerous, this area has now been completely revitalized due to government action and real estate development by Carlos Slim. The main areas are now quite safe and sophisticated urbanites and businessmen are coming back to the area.

San Angel : Next to Coyacan, this neighborhood also features cobblestone streets, traditional architecture and excellent restaurants. The convent-turned-inn, the San Angel Inn, is located here which is an amazing place to have lunch--the building and courtyard are gorgeous. You should, however, only plan to visit this area on Saturday when one of the best bazaars in the city, Bazaar del Sabado, is setup. You will find endless rows of crafts, jewelry and local art.

Shopping

Avenida Massaryk, called the "5th Avenue" of Mexico City, features many upscale retailers like Chanel and Hermes as well as many smaller unique boutiques. If you're looking for more affordable stores we highly recommend a beautiful, open-air mall called Antara Polanco that features some of our favorites such as Zara, Mango, Massimo Dutti, Sasch and Brantano Shoes.

For hipster stuff head to Condesa, where there are a lot of independent retailers such as NaCo Miscelanea which has great original t-shirts (Naco is Mexican slang for "trashy").

If you're looking for bargains, silver jewelry or Mexican crafts you should head to Coyacan or to the Historic Center. The best bazaar if you're planning to stay longer, is the Bazaar del Sabado (Saturdays only) in the beautiful neighborhood of San Angel.

Restaurants

Cambalache: (upscale) Fantastic Argentinean steak house (that is a steal compared to an American steak house). Col. Polanco, Arquimedes 85, T 5282 2922

El Cardenal: (upscale) This is a Mexico City classic with two locations, the original in El Centro and the new ritzier location in Las Lomas. Serving ladies who lunch and business men traditional Mexican dishes. The hot chocolate is legendary. Col. Lomas de Chapultepec, Av. de las Palmas 215, T 2623 0402 / Col. El Centro, Palma 23, T 5521 3080

Aguila y Sol: (upscale) Everyone says this is one of the BEST restaurants in Mexico City, serving contemporary Mexican cuisine by renowned chef Martha Ortiz. Said to attract a fashionista crowd. Col. Polanco, 127 Emilio Castelar, T 5281-8354

Denominacion de Origien (D.O.): (upscale) Serves regional Spanish cuisine with a great selection of seafood. The bar serves dollar tapas. Col. Polanco, Hegel 406 (Av. Pres. Masaryk), T 5255 0912

La Valentina: (affordable) This is great place for a traditional Mexican meal and it has a large tequila selection. Raul and I have had numerous great meals here. Col. Polanco, Av. Presidente Masaryk 393, T 5282 2297

Izote: (upscale) A reservation here is one of the hardest to get, as cookbook author Patricia Quintana has won over the capital with her sophisticated take on pre-Hispanic flavors. More Col. Polanco, Av. Presidente Masaryk 513, T 5280 1671

Villa Maria: (affordable) Down-home Mexican cooking with live mariachis, huge margaritas and authentic Mexican dishes. This is a favorite neighborhood spot. Col. Polanco, Homero 704, T 5203 0306

Pujol: (upscale) Acclaimed chef Enrique Olivera uses local ingredients and organic greens to create his contemporary cuisine. Features outstanding service and a refined yet relaxed setting. Col. Polanco, Francisco Petrarca 254, T 5545 4111

La Hacienda de los Morales: (upscale) You must come here for the ultimate traditional Mexican dining experience. Located in a 16th-century hacienda this is an historic oasis in the middle of Polanco. Serving excellent Mexican food amidst Spanish colonial decor. This was also Raul's mother's favorite restaurant. *Jacket and tie required for dinner. Col. Polanco, Vazquez de Mella 525, T 5096 3054

Non Solo Pasta: (affordable) If you're tired of Mexican food (and the glitz of Polanco), this charming spot offers simple Italian dishes, in a casual atmosphere with a good wine selection. Col. Polanco, Julio Verne 89, T 5280 9706

Tako's Tacos: (affordable) Located on a quiet residential street, Tako's attracts locals and ex-pats in the know and features a lovely covered patio on the street. Col. Polanco, Edgar Allan Poe 14-A, T 5280 8948

Bellini: (upscale) Located on the 45th floor the the World Trade Center with a revolving floor, this is a great way to see the city at night. Serves international cuisine. Col. Napoles, Avenida de las Naciones, T 5628 8304

Restaurat at Hotel Condesa DF: (affordable for day, upscale dinner) This gorgeously designed hotel in the beautiful neighborhood of Condesa is worth a visit even if you don't eat. Serving Mexican, French and Japanese fusion dishes in an open air courtyard patio. (after, hit the rooftop for drinks or disco in the basement) Col. Condesa, Avenida Veracruz 102, T 5241 2600

El Califa: (affordable) Considered to be one of the best and most fashionable taquerias in town. A great spot for lunch or a post club bite. Col. Condesa, Altata 22, T 5271 6285

El Tizoncito: (affordable) The self proclaimed creator of the taco al pastor (a must eat during your visit!) This is one of the best taquerias I've eaten at and they have numerous locations around the city. Col. Condesa, 362 Campeche, T 5286 5374 (also Col. Polanco, Emerson 304, Loc. PB2-B / Col Coyoacan, Aguayo No. 3 Locales)

La Tecla: (affordable) This see-and-be-seen eatery, with branches in two of the hippest neighborhoods, is a popular veteran of Mexico City's nueva cocina mexicana. Col. Condesa, Av. Durango 186A, T 5525 4920 & Col. Polanco, Moliere 56 (Av. Presidente Masaryk), T 5282 0010

Xel-Ha: (affordable) Unpretentious, serving dishes from the Yucatan region. Specialties are said to be the sopa de lima (lime soup) and cochinita pibil (slow roast pork). Col. Condesa, Parral 78 Bis, T 5553 5968

Covadonga: (affordable) An old-fashion style cantina serving traditional Spanish food. A favorite for young artists and ex-pats playing dominos. (More info) Col. Roma, Puebla 121, T 5533 2822

Contramar: (affordable) One the city's most fashionable eateries, it is a mix of modern seafood and old-school cantina. Contramar is a favorite of fashionistas and businessman. Lunch only. Col. Roma, Durango 200, T 5514 9217

Ixchel: (upscale) Located in an early-20th century house and featuring period decor, a sultry atmosphere and two floors with dinning on the first and a chic bar upstairs. Serving Asian-Mediterranean fusion. Col. Roma, Medellin 65, T 5208 4055

Las Lupitas: (affordable) One the most traditional neighborhood restaurants you will find, known for it's delicious breakfasts. Col. Coyoacan, Plaza Santa Catarina 4 C (Francisco Sosa), T 5554 3353

Los Danzantes: (affordable) Next to Coyoacan's lively Jardin del Centenario, this restaurant uses original ingredients from Oaxaca to create contemporary Mexican cuisine. Col. Coyoacan, Jardin del Centenario No. 12 (Tres Cruces), T 5658 6451

San Angel Inn: (upscale) This ex-convent turned inn features international cuisine with many traditional Mexican choices. This is a classic favorite of Mexicans and tourists--it's one of my favorite places I've eaten at. More Col. San Angel, Calle Diego Rivera 50, T 5616 0537

El Nivel: (affordable) An old cantina that opened in 1855 boasts having the first liquor license in the country. Serving traditional Mexican food. Col. El Centro, Moneda 2, T 5522 9755

La Opera: (affordable) Dating from the early 1900s, this restaurant features a baroque interior, red booths and elaborate gold detailing--but it isn't pretentious and serves traditional Mexican food. Col. El Centro, 5 de Mayo 10, T 5512 8959

Casa Merlos: (affordable) a bit off the beaten path, but said to be one of the BEST places to get mole. The food is from the region of Puebla, which makes it Poblano. Specialties include chapilines (fried insects) Near Col. El Centro, Victoriano Zepeda 80, Obsevatorio, T 5277 4360

Sanborns: (affordable) A chain of restaurants/mini department stores, the original is housed in an old colonial building in the heart of the city center and serves traditional Mexican food. It's especially great for breakfast (I highly recommend the chiliquiles and cactus juice) Col. El Centro, Francisco I Madero 4, T 5510 1331

Cafe Tacuba: (affordable) One of the most famous restaurants in the city, serving traditional dishes such as chiles rellenos, mole and our favorite soup: pozole. Col. El Centro, Tacuba 28, T 5518 4950

NOTE: I'm loosely using the terms affordable and upscale, but generally speaking, even the most upscale places won't break the bank by US standards--Raul and I have often had affordable meals for $10-30 each, and amazing, upscale 3-course meals with drinks for about $40-60 each.

Bars & Clubs

BARS:

AREA: (hotel bar/lounge) Col. Polanco, Av. Presidente Masaryk 201, Hotel Habita, T 5282 3100
Moon Bar: (hotel bar/lounge) Col. Polanco, Mariano Escobedo 700, Hotel Camino Real, T 5263 8888

Blue Lounge: (hotel bar/lounge) Col. Polanco, Mariano Escobedo 700, Hotel Camino Real, T 5263 8888
The Whiskey Bar: (hotel bar/lounge) Col. Polanco, Camos Eliseos 252, W Hotel, T 9138 1842

Sky Bar: (bar/lounge) Col. Polanco, Masaryk 133, T 5545 0848

Bar Fly: (salsa club) Col. Polanco, Masaryk 393, T 5282 2906

Chronic Garden: (preamble bar, spinning hip-hop) Col. Polanco, Anatole France 120, T 5281 7235
Karisma: (cantina) Col. Polanco, Campos Eliseos 219, T 5280 1872

Terrace Renault: (DJ bar) Col. Polanco, Masaryk 214, T 5281 3120

Bengala: (DJ bar) Col. Roma, Sonora 34, T 5553 9219

Cibeles: (neighborhood bar) Col. Roma, Plaza Villa de Madrid 17, T 5208 1456
Rexo: (martini/restaurant bar) Col. Condesa, Saltillo 1, T 5553 5337
Cinnabar: (DJ bar) Col. Condesa, Leon 67, T 5286 8456
Cafeina: (DJ bar) Col. Condesa, Nuevo Leon 73, T 5212 0090
La Terraza: (hotel bar/lounge) Col. Condesa, Verzcruz 102, Condesa DF Hotel, T 5241 2600
Condechi: (neighborhood bar) Col. Condesa, Atlixco 100, T 5553 0607

PM popmuzik: (bar, retro theme) Col. Condesa, Nuevo Leon 67, T 5286 8456

NIGHTCLUBS:

Love: (nightclub, 80s & 90s music) Col. Polanco, Av. President Masaryk 169, T 5254 3535 *

Bua: (nightclub, said to be hottest disco in DF) Col. Polanco, Vazquez de Mella 481, T 5282 0601 *
Rioma: (after hours club) Col. Condesa, Insurgentes Sur 377, T 5584 0613

Bulldog: (dance/live music) Col. Mixcoac, Rubens 6, T 5611 8818

*Call ahead to make a reservation for bottle service to get in--it's much cheaper than it is in the US.

Safety

We know, most of you have probably heard a lot about Mexico City being dangerous. The truth is you're going to be fine. Government involvement in recent years has greatly improved safety conditions. Like in the US, the crimes that get significant media attention are, in reality, few and far between. We're also not going to lie and say you should operate the way you would at home--it's important that you be informed of the realities. The major thing you need to be cautious of is petty theft. Basic common sense and being alert to your surroundings will ensure you have a safe and wonderful experience.

Basic Precautions: Don't wear flashy jewelry or watches when you're walking around on the street and be discrete when handling money--especially if you're at an outdoor market where there are a lot of people around you, when downtown in El Centro, or when visiting an ATM. We recommend that you only use ATMs inside enclosed establishments (not the glassed in ones on the street). It's also advisable to use cash whenever possible and save your credit card for larger exchanges like the hotel and more upscale restaurants and bars. Leave any extra cash, credit cards, and jewelry in the safe in your room.

Taxis: Never hail a taxi on the street and do NOT use the VW Beetle cabs. Taxi related crimes, although rare, are a fact you should be aware of. It isn't our intention to scare you, but the following simple precautions will minimize any risks.

As charming as the Beetle taxis are, they are independent, "libre," taxis, and not considered to be as safe. (Although recently the government has, somewhat sadly, begun a program to phase out the Beetles in an effort to reduce smog) Instead you should ask the hotel, restaurant or bar you are at to call for a sitio taxi (pronounced "C-T-O") to pick you up. These are regulated taxis registered with the city. Most establishments will be able to take care of this for you just remember to tip anyone who helps you, tipping goes a long way in Mexico. If you have a working cell phone it is also a good idea to get a sitio number from the concierge so you can make arrangements if you're at a place where someone can't call for you (American Airlines recommends Sitio Polanco 241). Don't be surprised if the cab doesn't have a meter, this is pretty common and the fair will be determined by zone, just be sure to negotiate the price before departing.

You can often hire one of these drivers to act as your personal driver to escort you around the city all day for a reasonable price. So, if you feel you've established a nice relationship with a driver you should ask for his number so you can call upon him later. You can also ask the concierge about turismo taxis. These are a more expensive option (about $15 an hour) and are usually well-kept luxury cars with English speaking guides that will provide exceptional service. But, a sitio taxi is really all you'll need and they are perfectly safe.

US Embassy:
American Embassy in Mexico City
Paseo de la Reforma 305
Colonia Cuahtemoc
06500 Mexico, D.F.

From Mexico:
Tel: (01-55) 5080-2000
Fax: (01-55) 5525-5040

From the US:
Tel: 011-52-55-5080-2000
Fax: 011-52-55-5525-5040

Health

Pollution: It is no secret that Mexico City has a problem with pollution, and although things have greatly improved in the past ten years, you should be prepared to experience anything from no problem at all to allergy-like symptoms with throat and/or eye irritation. If you are sensitive or have asthma problems we highly recommend you come prepared with any medications. Some Zyrtec and Visine work for me! More.

Altitude: Mexico City is situated at 7,400 feet. You should be aware that this can affect your energy level, breathing, digestion, sleep and sensitivity to alcohol. It often effects people much more than they expect, so go easy on the drinks!

Water: Drink bottled water at all times. For cooking and eating you really don't have much to worry about as most all restaurants and bars use filtered water for ice and cooking. I personally don't worry about brushing my teeth with the tap water and have never had any problems, but you may want to supervise small children or have them use some bottled water. It may also be a good idea to sponge bathe infants and toddlers.

Food: You won't have any problems with the food at modern, sit-down restaurants--I really think the idea that people get sick from the food in Mexico is largely an exaggeration--and, definitely not a big problem in the city--most people get upset stomaches from eating too many hot peppers and/or regular travelers upset. BUT, unless you're confident you have a hearty stomach, you should avoid buying snacks from street vendors and stay away from the fresh fruit at street markets.

More health and safety info.

Phone

If you are calling a local number from a local land line you dial a 5 + the 7 digit number. Numbers are usually listed with the 5 included: 5XXX XXXX, like how I have them in the listings above. If you are calling from the states OR from a US cell phone while in Mexico you will need to dial 011 52 55 5XXX XXXX (011 to dial out, 52 is the country code, 55 is the city code).

Most US cell phones will work well in Mexico City, but remember that you will be roaming--if you want the convenience of using your phone, we recommend that you get an international plan before you go so you won't get hit with huge fees. You can always cancel it when you come back.

Both my and Raul's cell phones will work in Mexico so please feel free to call us with any questions--just don't leave a message as we cannot easily retrieve them. Remember, that even though you may be dialing from your US cell phone to us, you'll still need to dial like you're dialing out of the country.

Wednesday, April 2, 2008

Mexico City Images

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